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Scuba Diving The name of Sipadan is simply legendary in diving circles, conjuring images of twirling tornados of barracudas and jacks, patrolling hammerhead sharks, millions of technicoloured reef fish and, above all, dozens of sea turtles swimming peacefully everywhere.
This description is not far from reality: it might even actually downplay a little bit, as Sipadan is considered one of the five top diving destinations in the world. This small rainforest-covered tropical island rising from a 700 meter abyss in the Celebes Sea is a destination the committed diver cannot miss. 
Perhentian up on the border with Thailand, Redang, Tenggol and Lang Tengah all feature highly in divers' logbooks. And further south Tioman, Aur and Dayang are all popular spots with Malaysia and Singapore-based divers alike. During monsoon, from November to February, there are a few options off the Peninsula's west coast. One is Jarak, a large rock of an island, an overnight boat journey away from Kuala Selangor. A live-aboard is your only option. Another is a day trip from Langkawi to Payar, whose reefs teem with fish life, albeit with low visibility.
 The more expensive, but better visibility options during monsoon and the rest of the year lie off Sabah. For example, Layang Layang Atoll, to the north of Kota Kinabalu. Made up of a dozen reefs, it is well known for its schools of hammerheads and manta rays. Lankayan to the north of Sandakan is another prime spot.And of course, Sipadan. Earlier this year the government ordered all operators off the island to allow the local environment to recover from years of over-diving and overstretched infrastructure. As a result, Mabul and Kapalai have fast become the spots from which to continue diving Sipadan's prime dive sites. Another contender for a staging point to Sipadan is Mataking. ln addition to their proximity to Sipadan, all three can rightfully claim to have some of the best macro diving in the world. For those looking for a bit of maritime history, Malaysia's wrecks are another option. Get wrecked off Malaysia
With proper technical dive training in breathing different gas mixes and deep diving techniques, a whole new world opens up to the experienced diver. To the northeast of Tioman are two British Royal Navy warship wrecks, HMS Prince of Wales and HMS Repulse, resting at roughly 80 metres. Under UK law they are classified as war graves. Divers cannot penetrate or remove anything from inside, although diving the exterior is permitted.
Labuan, off Sabah, is where you can find other major wrecks down at 30 metres. A US minesweeper, a passenger steamship, a cement freighter and a trawler all await the experienced diver. There are also live-aboard operators that offer weekend trips and longer dive safaris around Malaysia's wrecks and reefs. The main benefit is up to 5-6 daily dives on sites not normally accessible to divers. Ben selecting a live-aboard remember that a good pair of sea legs is necessary, or you'll be feeding the fish all day. Diving, eating and sleeping is the daily form. Malaysia's diving is sold on its variety: macro and pelagic; recreational and technical; In peninsular and east Malaysia, there is something for every level of diver and every budget. Even the same dive site can be a completely different experience, depending on the time of year, month, day, and of course, luck. That's my excuse to dive every month,
A few minutes by boat from Sipadan but a full world away it lies the exhilarating Sipadan-Kapalai Dive Resort , sitting on its sturdy stilts on the shallow sandbanks of the Ligitan Reefs. Planned and built in full style as an airy, comfortable, sunny water village with no land in sight, it boats a mile-long sandbank of powdery blindingly white sand where one can suntan at complete leisure.
The resort offers great food, surprisingly roomy and elegant twin-sharing wooden chalets with huge private balconies and attached bathrooms and a couple of miles of walkways for those who like to take their morning jog while looking at thousands of fish just a few inches beneath their feet. Meals are served in the terraced, open central structure, while a big western sundeck allows divers to have an evening drink or an after-dive chat with a background of fabulous tropical sunsets.
Diving around Kapalai is exceedingly easy and shallow but quiet spectacular: the sandy bottom and the spare coral heads host an amazing array of small, often yet-to-be-classified, shamelessly colourful subjects, making the diving here and unforgettable experience for any discerning photographer. The resort offers three dives a day plus, if requested, day trips at Sipadan. |
